Monday I went to work at TARSHI. To give you an idea of the awesome people I work with, this is the background of my computer:
Monday was December 16th, the anniversary of the bus gang rape that took place in Delhi last year. I asked at TARSHI if there were any protests happening and Shruti, who is doing PhD work at Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU), offered to take me with her to the student march.
We left that afternoon and headed to the JNU. Although we arrived on time, nothing was really happening (India is much like Argentina this way; things will begin late almost without fail), so Shruti and I had chai and talked. She introduced me to Lenin, who used to be the JNU student president. Interestingly, there is a strong left influence in India, especially in the south, so Lenin's parents gave him his name and his brother is Marx.
Shruti was explaining to me that there is conflict between the more radical left and the organized left for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that the radical left doesn't believe in parliamentary democracy and so does not get involved in elections. It is a fascinating debate and culture, especially at the university level where activists work for student organizational arms of various political parties.
After a while, we headed to the gathering place and walked around to look at some of the protest art displayed around the area. The work was powerful and diverse, done by students.
Things began with chanting and singing. I love this about indian protest culture. It is awesome, and everyone knows how to respond and various people in the crowd can take over the leadership when someone's voice gets tired or even just if the mood strikes.
Bismay had translated a few popular phrases for me: Freedom, Quit India, What do we want?
Shruti helped with a few more: Make a loud noise, Long live, drown and die
Eventually we began to march, passing around candles and posters and falling into two lines down the street. Shruti told me that last year the protest blocked a major intersection with so many people that the government, which was in session at the time, had no choice but to acknowledge them. This year there were fewer people but the lines were long.
The march ended at the bus stop where the woman and her friend boarded the bus. Indian law prevents the release of the victim's name. She died two weeks after she was attacked and raped on the bus. Her friend survived with injuries.
Various activists gave speeches
Gautam Bhan, a queer activist
The candles and signs left by the marchers
After the march, Shruti took me to dinner on campus. The food was delicious and we talked for quite a while about different things, including Shruti's plans to pursue a PhD in Women's Studies in the US. She also helped me understand the train classes so that I could book my travel around the north. I was grateful to be able to participate in the march and to spend an evening with Shruti.
I spent Tuesday doing work, booking trains and travel and hotels and housing and all of the things that build up and require a lot of attention at some point. It is something familiar in every country, but that evening Rohini and Jasneet also ended up in the same cafe, so I capped the day off with good dinner and good conversation.
The next day, Jasneet and I headed to Old Delhi to see Chandi Chowk, the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid, and just to explore generally. I had not been to this part of Delhi before and wow is it crowded and busy and all of the things that I normally see amplified by 1000. It is also beautiful and interesting and full of history.
We started at the Red Fort, which was built in the 17th century as the home of the Mughal emporers in Delhi. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
This is not fog. This is smog.
After exploring the Red Fort, we walked over to the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India, also built in the 17th century. Tourists are not allowed after sunset, and we just missed the mark, but a man there to pray walked us to another entrance and helped us enter. It was beautiful, and I want to return in the daytime. In the meantime, here is a picture from outside the gates.
Leaving the mosque, we walked through a market and then took an autorickshaw to eat some delicious street food. Jasneet introduced me to tons of delicious stuff. We ate sweets, my favorite of which was probably jalebi, something sort of like funnel cake, and savory things as well. I particularly loved the gol gappa, which is like a hollowed fried bread bowl that gets filled with a mixture of potatoes and spiced water. I paid dearly for that later in the week, but more on that after some fun pictures.
One of the markets
Famous street food stall, according to the articles in the background
After eating lots and wandering for a bit, Jasneet and I headed home. It had been a great day of seeing something new in the city.
On Thursday evening, I went to a meeting of Delhi Queer Pride and listened as they discussed the next steps in fighting 377 and issues of funding and organization. The practicalities of protest are easy to forget in the moment, and I was glad to be present for a conversation about logistics as a reminder of the hard work done behind the scenes.
I headed to work later that week and although I made it through the day, as soon as I got home, I was hit hard with my first (and hopefully last) case of Delhi Belly. I will not go into detail other than to say that I was down for the count for a few days and had to miss meetings and a Saturday protest. I will also say, Esha you were right about Delhi Belly. Luckily after the fever broke, things headed in the right direction again, and I was able to get back into the groove of things by Sunday.
This week I am thankful for:
1. The spirit of Indian protest
2. Good company and a chance to eat new things and to see a new part of the city
3. Gatorade and a warm bed
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