Week Thirty Three: Mumbai Pride!!

The flight to Mumbai was short and easy, and there were some beautiful views along the way.  I landed around sunset and took a cab to my hostel/hotel in the city.  This was my first introduction to how big Mumbai is; the cab ride took a very long time and I got to see a diversity of housing, businesses, and sights as we drove and waited in traffic. 

I arrived at the hotel exhausted so I ate dinner and headed to bed to get ready for the next day.  

On the way to Mumbai 

Landing at sunset.  Apparently there is something about the pollution that makes Mumbai sunsets particularly beautiful.  Ironic but they are incredible here. 

The next day I explored some and then headed to a pre-Pride event that was a combination of films from the queer festival here, Kashish, and a panel on 377.  I should note that somewhere around 5 hours was spent in commute.  Did I mention how big Mumbai is? 

The films were great.  Here is a trailer for one of my favorites: 

Pride 

I wish I were able to attend the festival in full.

The panel on 377 was also excellent and included representatives from diverse backgrounds who were related to the ruling and the fight against it in a variety of ways. 

One of my favorite speakers, whom I had seen a few times before, is a mother who has been a named party in the case for several years. She always speaks very passionately and frankly.  There were also speakers from some of the LGBT organizations in India, activists, professors, and others.  It was a great introduction to Pride festivities in Mumbai and it gave me a chance to see a considerable amount of the city.  

The train station

At the film series

The 377 panel

The next day I explored on foot and started researching and emailing organizations here and also in South Africa!  It is time to get ready to go, which I really can't believe.  Cape Town is my last majory stop before home, meaning I am weeks away from the last leg of my Watson journey.  I have incredibly mixed feelings about this and I am working through them but right now it's my goal to enjoy exactly where I am and where I should be. 

I was really looking forward to Friday night because a group of us had tickets to go see Dirty Talk, a pre-Pride event with a happy hour and a bunch of performances from musicians, actors, and comedians.  In a super delightful coincidence, Sara and Rohini were both in Mumbai visiting and Eliza works here, so we all met at the Three Wise Men, where the even was set to take place, and grabbed some drinks before settling in to watch.  

The bar was packed.  It was crazy and there was definitely not enough room.  We ended up sitting on the ground in front of the stage, which gave us a great view but also left me a little nervous because it was prime space for audience interaction a la Sydney and the drag show in Cordoba. 

In the end it was fabulous and funny and there were a number of great acts.  My favorite was probably the comedy group that ended the show.  There were definitely a fair number of jokes that went straight over my head culturally but the ones I understood were very funny, and the ones I didn't were a huge hit with people who knew what was up. 

We grabbed dinner after the show at a delicious schwarma place in Bandra and then I headed back for some pre-Pride sleep!

Walking around the city

Opening act

Gay India version of If You're Happy and You Know It

The host

All the pictures reflect my awkard angle, ha. 

Mumbai Pride started at around 3pm on Saturday. Early that afternoon I had brunch with Kavya, Eliza, Sara, and Rebecca.  Afterward, Kavya and Eliza and I took a train and then a walk to the starting point.  The crowd was massive, much bigger than in Delhi and much more than I was anticipating.  It was really exciting to see such a big turnout at the first major Pride event since the 377 ruling.

We marched for several blocks, and there were representatives from many organizations and many different places, including Delhi. Partha was there, which was fantastic, and I can't believe I forgot to get a picture of the two of us but I did manage to snag some pretty great ones of him dancing during the parade (see below). The march was inspiring and fun, as they tend to be, and it was interesting to see the similarities and differences between Delhi and Mumbai in terms of the way they celebrate and protest.  

Many of the chants with which I am now familiar didn't make an appearance, and I am not sure if it was because of the celebratory atmosphere or because those things change regionally. Those that were used were confined to a very small portion of the crowd.  Maybe it was size that made getting united voices so much more difficult.  

The march ended with a bit of a whimper in the middle of traffic but there were a few places where the party continued, and we visited at least four of them, including Cafe Ideal, the beach, Cafe General, and Liquid (the club where the official after-party was held).   

I love a good Pride day.  Seriously, I cannot emphasize enough how invigorating those days are. Especially here in India, where same-sex affection of a romantic nature is restricted to the extent that I generally see it only in all-gay groups or most commonly, on Facebook groups meant only for the community, these days are a chance to create a safe space, however fleeting. 

Always music, always dancining, love it, love it

Partha Dancing

Partha

Passed this appropriate advertisement on the march

Partha!

With Kavya and Eliza

On the beach after Pride

By the time the after-party began we were a little tired and not sure whether or not to go but I thought I would at least go for a little while, and I am so glad that I did.  There were openly affectionate couples everywhere.  I saw couples making out, which is taboo even between straight couples. (I once had a friend showing me some pictures of vacation and he and his wife were leaning toward each other in one, as if to kiss.  His friend looked at me and laughed, "They were pretending to kiss! In public!" I am not sure what the equivalent would be at home, not that I believe there should be one, but it was an interesting adjustment in perspective.) 

The crowd was skewed male but there were a fair number of lesbians as well, definitely a more balanced representation than what I generally experienced in Delhi.  It was overwhelming in the same sense that every crowded club is, but I was not annoyed by it the way that I generally am because it was so great to find that space and just be there for a little while.  We didn't stay terribly long.  It was ridiculously loud and impossible to talk or really meet new people in any meaningful sense, but it was a great way to end the evening and it definitely introduced me to a new aspect of queer life in India. 

We said goodbye and I headed home, really excited to wait for Mimi to get in for a visit early Sunday morning!

This week I am particularly thankful for: 

1. A new city and a new chance to experience Pride and its impact and importance

2. The Fulbrights for continuing to be so awesome and providing me with a totally unexpected and totally fabulous community of great, interesting people

3. Safe spaces 

Week Twenty Nine: The New Year, Haridwar and Rishikesh

Unfortunately, I started this week in sickness.  It seems to have become a semi-regular thing.  I think I became overconfident after avoiding sickness for so long at the beginning of my time here.  Anyway, on Monday and Tuesday, I headed to work at TARSHI.  Again I cannot emphasize enough how much I enjoy working in that office with such cool people.  For the most part I help Shruti and Anisha where I can with various things. 

Although I didn't do anything particularly exciting on New Year's Eve, I did get to see a friend that afternoon and eat some good food that reminded me of home before chilling and watching movies by myself that night.  

Pizza! 

The temple in Malviya Nagar near my apartment.

As a sort of New Year celebration, I headed to Haridwar and Rishikesh, both holy cities near the base of the HImalayas and on the Ganges. I took an early train from Delhi and arrived at my hotel early in the afternoon. The view was gorgeous. 

The river from my hotel

It was a short trip so I headed out as soon as I put my stuff in the room, walking to the river and Har Ki Pauri, the ghat that is famous and holy as the site of a visit from Lord Vishnu, who left a footprint there.

Haridwar is awesome in part because it is so beautiful and not touched by smog in the same way as Delhi.  The river is mostly clear and the sky is blue and walking through the city was a really nice change from what I am used to in the capital.

View down onto the river

Cow enjoying some treats from a local stall

At the Har Ki Pauri ghat

Cows at the ghat

The river

Ghat from one of the bridges

From the other end

I walked around for a bit on the river before heading toward Mansa Devi and Chandi Devi, two temples in the mountains.  I wanted to return to the river for the aarti that evening and see the temples that day before heading to Rishikesh the next morning.  

I took a cable car to the see Mansa Devi first and then hopped on a bus to drive over to Chandi Devi where I took another cable car up the mountain.  Photography is not allowed past a certain point, but both temples were beautiful and beautifully located.  

Heading up 

Cable Car Selfie

The temple

A little closer

While I was wandering, I met a student from the engineering school who was also traveling solo, so we spent the afternoon talking and making the second part of the trip, from the top of Mansa Devi to Chandi Devi, together. It is always nice to find someone else who is traveling alone or who is interested in going to the same places.  

We had a tea and talked before heading our separate ways. 

I made my way down to the aarti but along the way I ran into Praveen, a friend of a friend from Delhi who happened to be traveling with his wife and friends at the same time.  It was such a nice surprise to run into him and we planned to meet up in Rishikesh, where they were staying and where I had intended to spend my day anyway, the next day. 

In the meantime, I headed back to Har Ki Pauri and watched the aarti, the religious ceremony that takes place along the river.

Chanting

In the river

Offering

Someone's pooja

Someone offering pooja

The crowd on the other side of the river

On the side of the river where I was sitting

The ceremony

On the river

Prayers 

Offerings waiting to be sold

On a bridge over the river

I headed back to my hotel after the aarti and did some reading before bed.  

I woke up and took an auto to Rishikesh, which is about an hour away. 

Rishikesh was even more beautiful than Haridwar and walking through the city and along the river made for a great day.  I spent a lot of time exploring and visiting various temples and ashrams, of which there are many.  

View of Swarg Niwas from the cafe where I had breakfast

Not too shabby

View along the river crossing the Lakshman Jhula Bridge

Bathing in the river

On the bridge.  I carried my luggage with me that day and was glad I packed lightly. 

Baby monkeys are the best

Cow crossing

Stereotypical

Great view

Cow crossing part II.  

I spent a bit waiting here because Praveen and I had trouble catching each other.  Eventually I headed across and began walking down with plans to meet up later in the day. 

Some of the sights along the way: 

Swarg Ashram, which is massive

I spent some time resting and watching these cows play fight

And also this sneaky dude, same as above, try to steal from the vegetable vendor.  He never managed to do it but he was persistent and adorable. 

Ghats

Cow on the Ganges

Beautiful view from the bridge

I trekked a long, long way down to try to find Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ahsram, where The Beatles made the White Album, and although I thought I found it, turns out I did not.  I was directed by a monk who told me that the place had been closed for a long time and his directions were very helpful but apparently I stopped at the ashram just before the one I wanted, sad day.  I will not put the random closed ashram selfie here because it is mildly embarrassing but just know it exists. 

Finally I made my way back up to find Praveen and his wife and friends.  We sat and talked on the beach before having chai and street food.  Unfortunately we talked a little too long and I ended up missing my train because our car got caught in traffic and the train was running on time (never a guarantee).  

Praveen was super helpful and found me a different train back and helped me to, errrr, talk my way into a better compartment and seat.  This involved Praveen telling me to look downtrodden (and explaining that begging and bribary are generally effective in this area) while he spoke to a train official about me being a lady tourist.  It worked, thankfully, and although I paid more, I was happy to be able to be in a position to sleep.  I was even happier when, horror of horrors, some virus/food poisoning/curse for bribing my way up in the world hit me and I was a sick, gross, fevered mess and extremely happy for access to a Western toilet.  

Despite that, it was a beautiful trip and overall a fabulous way to start the New Year and continue my adventures. 

This week I am thankful for: 

1.  Everyone who made this year what it was and helped me through many major milestones, including graduation and leaving for the Watson. 

2. The fact that it really is a small world and I got to spend more time with Praveen and his lovely wife and friends. 

3.  A chance to see the Ganges and be close to the Himalayas